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Day 3 : Pangi Valley
Exploration Trek

Route: Sural Valley, Hundan Valley

Sural valley trek (3181m) - One of the most frequented treks from Killar is to Sural and Sural Bhatori. Sural Bhatori is the last village on this side at a distance of twenty-two kilometers from Killar. The trek is easy and gains height gradually. It is gently laid upstream the nallah coming from Sural known by different names such as Sural nallah, Lujjai nallah and Dharwas nallah. Sural is one of the most beautiful places in Pangi. There are two stages in our trek.

Killar to Dharwas (2-3 hrs):

This nine kilometers stretch from Killar to Dharwas is easily covered. A steep rock face called Ur Ki Dhakki lies on the way. Earlier this was the most dangerous portion between Killar and Dharwas. After crossing the dhakki the trek passes through thick grove of thangi (hazelnut) trees. The trail then drops towards the left. In this patch lies the famous spring known as Tilmil Pani. Legend is that Raja of Chamba was so fond of this water that everyday water was taken to Chamba across Sach pass.From the Tilmil pani the trek leads to Lujjai nallah. The flow in this nallah is very fast. After Lujjai nallah the trek climbs to Dharwas village which is a thickly populated village in Pangi. Many trails start from Dharwas besides the one leading to Sural. The other trails go to Luj village, the last village of Pangi towards Sansari nallah

Dharwas to Sural (3-4 hrs):

Trek to Sural from Dharwas is scenic and easy. Chaloli and Anch villages are located on the way. Main Chaloti village is at some height from the trek leading to Sural. Trekkers can climb up the trail and rejoin after passing through the village before Anch nallah also called as Pagal (mad) nallah. After crossing this nallah one enters the Sural valley. This nallah has earned its name of Pagal (mad) due to unpredictable floods. It is known to change its direction every year. Panoramic and charming view of Sural valley can be had after the nallah. On clear days Shiv Shankar Peak can be seen from here. Shiv Shankar La (pass) is crossed to go to Zanskar valley. Sural at a distance of thirteen kilometers from Dharwas is a cluster of a few villages. These are Kanwas, Ganmas, Rusmas, Tai, inner Bhatori and outer Bhatori. Sural Tai is the main village. The last hamlets of Sural are Buddhist villages known as Anteru (inner) Bhator and Bahieu (outer) Bhator. There is a Buddhist temple (Gompa) located at about 3201 m. This gompa is in a thick grove of birch trees. A monastery is located near the gompa. Many monks study here.

Hundan valley (3506m):

The thirteen kilometres trek from Killar to Hudan village involves moderate ascent. The trail passes through many villages till it reaches Hudan Bhatori, last village on this side. Hudan is a beautiful subvalley upstream Mahlu Allah. It has rich pastures beyond Hudan Bhatori known as Shinkal dhar. At Tundroo nallah one can rest and have cool refreshing water before starting on steep climb. After the initial climb, there comes a small portion below a huge rock. The local people narrate an interesting legend about this place. They show "swords" dug deep high up into the rock face. Only handles of the "swords" are visible presently from the path.Legend is that three pandits lived in Hudan valley who could fly. To demonstrate their skill they flew upto this rock and dug the swords at a place that was beyond reach of ordinary humans. Local people firmly believe this story.

On crossing Tundroo and Takwas, Hudan Bhatori is the last village in this sub-valley. Just one kilometer beyond Hudan Bhatori lies a t beautiful lake at a height of 3506m. Every year a fair is held at this place. It is an ideal camping site. The lake is frozen from mid-November to early May, depending upon weather. The only source of water is a nearby stream. The striking feature around the lake is carpet of wild flowers mostly yellow and blue in colour.A few kilometers beyond the lake are vast grazing lands known as Shinkal dhar. These grasslands are very rich in herbs and medicinal plants. Nagni springs are also located near Hudan Bhatori. This village, located at a height of 3354m is inhabited by Buddhists. There is a Gompa (Buddhist temple) with majestic statue of Lord Buddha. It also has some beautiful wall paintings. One can cross the 4878m high Tingloti pass from here to reach Sural sub-valley. This is a tough pass and is recommended only for experienced trekkers.

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